Delaware’s Northern Beaches

Rehoboth, Henlopen and Dewey

There are two basic ways to get to the Delaware beaches from the West Chester area. Head down US 1 for about two hours and drive along the southwestern shore of the Delaware River and Delaware Bay. But you won’t see much.

Or take the ferry from Cape May, New Jersey to Lewes, Delaware. From West Chester to Cape May will also take about two hours to drive. The ferry will take about another hour and a half for the 17-mile crossing of the Delaware Bay. You’ll breathe in the sea air, hear the squawks of the sea birds. If you’re lucky, you may see a dolphin or two.

In other words, if you time it right (and reserve your ferry spot), the ferry route adds 90 minutes to your trip. But your vacation will start with a cruise.

Rehoboth Beach

At Lewes, you’re about nine miles north of downtown Rehoboth Beach. Sometimes called the “nation’s summer capital,” since many from Washington, D.C. vacation there, the town is the best known of Delaware’s beach destinations. Family-friendly, Rehoboth has grand hotels, a walkable downtown, superb restaurants, boutique shopping and a mile-long boardwalk. Nightlife here is slim, but its neighbor Dewey Beach, four miles farther south, generally rocks with beach parties, bonfires, live music and an assortment of bars.

Places to Stay

Among the several very good hotels, the Boardwalk Plaza is a landmark, noted for its Victorian architecture and old-world charm. From your room, there’s a clear view of surf and ocean. The Atlantic Sands is also directly on the boardwalk. Sunbathers line its pool, elevated to provide an unobstructed view of the beach.

A little farther from downtown, the Henlopen Oceanfront, with private ocean-view balconies, also offers magnificent views of the beach, surf and sea. Off the beach are several properties to consider: The Hotel Rehoboth, Bellmoor Inn and the Avenue Inn all offer first-class accommodations. And, of course, there are plenty of summer rentals to explore.

Places for Fun

For amusement, the kids will enjoy Funland. You’ll find 20 colorful rides, including boats for very young riders, a spinning teacup ride and beautiful historic carousel. Older kids will like the Haunted Mansion, with spooky props and animatronics, or the SuperFlip360, which spins passengers while rotating them upside down.

Jungle Jim’s Waterpark offers another option. As Delaware’s largest waterpark, it features high-speed rides, a river and wave pool, and several toddler pools. Plus six batting cages.

For a 19-hole mini-golf course with a beachcomber theme, Shell We Golf is attractive. Also, the Midway Speedway has mini golf, as wells as go-kart racing and a water park.

On summer weekends through September 5, revel in free concerts at the Bandstand. Tribute bands covering Simon & Garfunkel, Elvis Presley, Fleetwood Mac, the Eagles and others will perform.

And of course, the July 4th Fireworks, scheduled for Sunday, July 5, will ignite the sky, courtesy of the City of Rehoboth Beach.

Cape Henlopen

If you’re less interested in thrills, and more inclined toward nature and history, visit Cape Henlopen State Park. The park is a six-mile barrier island between the ocean and bay. Using a bike path from Rehoboth, it’s about a 10-mile scenic ride.

Once there, explore an underground World War II bunker at Fort Miles, climb the Observation Tower to get a 360-degree view, visit the Seaside Nature Center, fish from the pier, bike the park’s 3.3-mile loop, go surfing or just relax on the sand. It’s your vacation, so you choose.

Dining by the Sea

Hungry? There are plenty of choices, especially if you like seafood. Located inside the Boardwalk Plaza, Victoria’s Restaurant is renowned for its sea views. Built so every indoor table is high enough to see surf, it offers a traditional Victorian afternoon tea and a refined coastal cuisine. For a meal featuring a fresh catch, head for Henlopen City Oyster House for its daily rotation of oysters and clams.

If you’re looking for an intimate bistro, choose La Fable. Savor exceptional French classics, including bouillabaisse, boeuf Bourguignon and fresh halibut, along with an outstanding wine list and superlative cocktails.

Dewey Beach

South of Rehoboth, Dewey Beach is known for its nightlife, bars, live music and water sports. Summer weekends are busy, especially with its younger crowds.

During the day, Dewey is less chaotic than Rehoboth, and beach access is easier. The ocean or bay are both readily available. To enjoy the water, rent paddleboards or jet skis, or join a pontoon boat or sunset cruise.

At night, The Starboard is Dewey’s go-to venue for good eats and great times. Live music and dancing are featured at Northbeach. And the Bottle & Cork has a lineup of summer concerts, including The Bacon Brothers and The Wallflowers.

You’ll also discover the beach at Dewey is alive with planned — and unplanned — events. Monday Night Movies and Wednesday Night Bonfires, for instance, continue until mid-August. All are welcome.

There’s plenty to do on Delaware’s northern beaches.

Delaware’s Southern Beaches

The Quiet Resorts

South of Rehoboth Beach is a six-mile stretch of beach towns known as “The Quiet Resorts.” More laidback and less crowded than Rehoboth and Dewey Beach, these Quiet Resorts are adored by families, couples and singles who just want to get away and relax.

The Three Towns

Bethany Beach is the northernmost of these quiet towns. Its beaches are wide, clean, uncrowded. On summer Mondays and Wednesdays, the town hosts free movies and bonfires on the beach. Family-oriented, with fewer and smaller hotels and motels than the northern towns — visitors generally rent a house or condo — the town has several delicious places to eat. While you’re here, plan to make your own fun — the beach, the bay, bicycles, mini-golf and ice cream shops undoubtedly will help.

Even quieter and more relaxed is South Bethany, with mostly vacation homes and canal-front properties. Go there for kayaking, canoeing, sailboarding and boating. Enjoy the beach, the ocean breezes and the beckoning waves.

Fenwick Island is the southernmost and least crowded of Delaware’s beach towns. It’s favored for boating, fishing, paddleboarding and other bay activities, and the town has exceptional seafood. Ocean City, Maryland, is just over the border if you have a change of heart and want more action.

Where to Stay

For hotels, try the boardwalk’s Bethany Beach Ocean Suites or the Fenwick Inn, with a rooftop pool. But accommodations are less upmarket than at Rehoboth Beach. And that’s likely because visitors commonly rent homes or condos for longer stays. If you book early, you can find very comfortable digs.

Sights and Sounds of Summer

Fireworks! The otherwise quiet resorts will boom and crackle this year with the sounds of America’s 250th. On July 3, the festivities begin with a parade through downtown Bethany followed by a rock ‘n’ soul concert in the evening (details below). On the actual 4th, there will be another concert. Then the fireworks begin with a dazzling display over the ocean.

Independence Day will also be celebrated at Fenwick Island. At Bayard Street Beach, enjoy a massive bonfire, a DJ, games with lifeguards and educational stargazing sessions. Ocean City’s fireworks in Maryland will be visible from the southern beaches.

The boardwalk-based Bethany Beach Bandstand is alive with music throughout the summer. Funsters Rock & Soul performs on July 3, and Uncaged Tribute, a Zac Brown tribute band, performs on July 4. Other bands are scheduled through the summer, including tribute bands for Fleetwood Mac, Led Zeppelin and the Rolling Stones. Get there early! The concerts are free, but seating is limited.

The State Parks

Neighboring the Quiet Resorts are two state parks. With six miles of ocean and 20 miles of bay shore, the Delaware Seashore State Park serves as habitat for beach plants, seabirds, shellfish, as well as for anglers, paddlers and beachgoers — think kites and volleyballs.

The Fenwick Island Park offers three miles of beaches together with access to Little Assawoman Bay. Ghost crabs, shore birds and ospreys can often be seen from the water’s edge. Surf fishing — striped bass, bluefish, fluke — is popular as are hiking and kayaking.

Offshore

North of Bethany is the Indian River Life-Saving Station. Built in 1876 to respond to offshore shipwrecks, it was a precursor to the U.S. Coast Guard. Today, as a maritime museum, it’s a must-see piece of history, periodically conducting lectures on shipwrecks, rescues and Morse code.

The Shipwreck Museum is a one-room museum on Fenwick, curated by a professional shipwreck diver and specialist on pirate lore. Get a close-up look at his booty — in this case meaning gold doubloons, pieces of eight, bullion, coins, jewelry, cutlasses, pistols and more.

The 1858 Fenwick Island Lighthouse was built to warn ships away from the treacherous Fenwick Shoals six miles offshore. Entrance to the grounds is free, but the stairway to the top is closed for safety reasons. A granite stone, featuring the coats of arms of William Penn to the north and Lord Baltimore to the south, was placed by surveyors in 1751 and marks the Delaware- Maryland border.

For Your Amusement

It’s not surprising that mini golf is the classic evening activity in the Quiet Resorts. Regarded as the best is the Millville Boardwalk, featuring a nautical-themed course, built alongside an ice cream parlor, go-karts and an arcade.

Nick’s Dinoland Golf in north Bethany has animatronic dinosaurs and a smoking volcano. St. Nick’s Mini Golf is on Fenwick Island and features a “Christmas in July” theme, with giant toys, candy canes, festive lighting and hidden Santa “hazards” on the course.

A tad less quiet on Fenwick is Viking Golf and Go-Karts. The golf course winds past Viking ships, trolls and dragons. When you tire of golf, the Thunder Lagoon waterpark and go-kart track are nearby.

Peeking In

Thinking about spending more than a weekend in the Quiet Resorts? The 34th Annual Beach & Bay Cottage Tour will take place on July 22 and 23 for in-person visits, and July 12 through August 2 for digital viewing. Ten homes, from Bethany Beach down into Fenwick Island, each an architectural gem, are on the tour.