Gin Is In

There’s both an art and a science to making gin. Add to its mystique a centuries-long journey from medicinal remedy to sophisticated cocktail favorite to worldwide spirit. For the Dutch, it was an elixir, for the British, an obsession, for Americans, a cultural statement and for mixologists, one of the more interesting tools of the trade.

What is it to you?

Origins & Backstory

First a little background. The flavor of gin stems from a combination of botanicals, one of which must be juniper to legally be called gin. It’s that piney, prominent taste that defines traditional juniper-forward gins and more subtle juniper notes that characterize the next-gen gins. But more about that later.

From the beginning, botanicals have been the heart and soul of gin. The gin of today evolved from the Dutch remedy, jenever, first mentioned in a 1350 Dutch medieval manuscript. Early Dutch jenever was an artisanal tonic distilled from malted barley with juniper, anise, caraway, coriander and other botanicals. It was sold in apothecaries as a treatment for kidney and stomach ailments, lumbago, gallstones and gout.

During that period, most herbal knowledge and healing emanated from monasteries, where monks cultivated herb gardens for medicinal purposes. Juniper berries and other botanicals were used, not only to flavor the gin, but also for their perceived medicinal properties.

By the 1600s, the Dutch remedy was in great demand and traded throughout Europe. Then when taxes were levied on imports coming into England and Scotland, entrepreneurs in Edinburgh decided to distill their own version and made it their own by calling it ‘gin.’ The British gin was nothing like the artisanal herbal tonic of the Dutch.

In the early 1700s, the Gin Craze consumed England. Overconsumption of gin made from low-quality distilled grain — often flavored with turpentine rather than juniper — was rampant, resulting in social unrest, a public health crisis and increased crime. To curb consumption and public disorder, the government imposed the Gin Acts of 1729 and 1736, raising taxes on gin and establishing licensing requirements for its sale.

The consumption and nature of gin followed changes in tastes, trends and politics. In the 1800s, Old Tom, a new sweeter style of gin emerged, followed by the hugely popular London Dry gin style. With British colonial expansion, the export of gin to other parts of the world grew as well, establishing gin as a global spirit.

During Prohibition in the U.S. (1920–1933), gin became more popular than ever. It was not only easy to make illicitly, but juniper masked the poor quality and off-flavors of the homemade spirit, known as bathtub gin. During this era, stylish speakeasies served some of the most iconic gin cocktails, including the gin rickey, aviation and Clover Club.

Modern Revivals

With the cocktail revival of the 1950s, the martini, gin gimlet, gin & tonic and others were considered sophisticated cocktails and were back in vogue. Meanwhile, vodka, which was never very popular before the war, started outselling gin in the U.S. Gin sales continued to decline for decades, with many big-name brands falling out of flavor.

Then, around 2000, another new cocktail culture was born and with it, an interest in reviving classic cocktails from the past, many made with gin, like the Negroni, French 75 and Tom Collins.

Making Gin

Like most distilled spirits, the process of making gin begins with a neutral base typically made from grains like corn, wheat, rye or barley, which are fermented by adding yeast. The mash is then distilled, as with vodka and other spirits.

But it’s the selection of botanicals that makes gin both exciting and distinctive. The distiller can add any combination of botanicals and may be influenced in the choice by local flora, culinary preferences, ethnobotanical practices or cultural traditions. Many gins include botanicals such as coriander, citrus, angelica root, orris root, cardamom, cinnamon and licorice. And remember: to be called gin, it must contain juniper.

The botanicals can be infused into the gin by two methods: maceration or vapor. Maceration produces a more intense flavor and involves steeping the botanicals in the alcohol, infusing the base spirit with their flavor, as you’d steep a cup of tea. Vapor infusion is faster and produces a lighter, subtler flavor. In this process, the botanicals are placed in a separate chamber allowing the alcohol vapor to pass through them and extract their flavors and aroma as the alcohol condenses.

A World of Gin

In addition to the botanicals used, other factors that contribute to the complexity and character of gin include the distilling method, base spirit and post-distillation treatment (such as barrel aging). There has never been such variety, quality and nuance as we see in the range of gins available today. (See below.)

But not all gins are created equal. Some are all natural, made from real botanicals, while others may be made “with other natural flavors,” which are not natural at all, but derived from other plant and animal sources. It’s important to do some digging to know what you’re drinking.

Signs of a gin renaissance can also be seen in the prevalence of gin-centric bars and extensive gin & tonic menus.

Aligned with today’s growing enthusiasm for premium ingredients, local botanicals and the healing power of plants, gin has come full circle back to the ethos of its original predecessor, jenever.

Ginned Up

Today, there’s a gin for every palate.

• Next-gen gin is embraced by the current cocktail culture. These craft and artisanal gins are made from interesting, new combinations of botanicals and are less juniper-forward than traditional London dry gins.
• London Dry gin is a juniper-forward gin, which doesn’t have to be made in London, but does have to be produced through redistillation. The botanicals must be distilled with the neutral base spirit and no flavors, sugar or additives can be added after distillation.
• Old Tom gin is a slightly sweet style of gin that became prominent in the 1800s. It bridges the gap between the older, sweeter Dutch gins and the dryer London Dry styles.
• Plymouth gin, originally from the English naval port city of Plymouth, has similar botanicals as a London Dry, but is slightly sweeter with an earthier, more full-bodied flavor. It’s been made in a unique pot still for the past 150 years and must be made in Plymouth.
• Navy strength gin signifies a gin that’s 57–58% ABV and similar to a London dry, with strong, bold flavors. Historically, it was issued by the British Royal Navy.
• Barrel-aged gin derives additional flavor from the barrel used, which is often oak and produces a smoother spirit than traditional gin. The aging process tends to mellow the sharpness of the juniper and add notes of vanilla, caramel and sometimes subtle spiciness.
• Sloe gin is a red liqueur made by infusing gin with sloe berries, a type of wild plum that imparts a sweet and fruity flavor.

If you’re a gin lover or cocktail explorer, try Revivalist Garden Gin. Created by Botanery Barn Distillery in collaboration with gin connoisseur and renowned bartender Brendan Bartley, this award-winning, all-natural gin is made right in Elverson, PA. Revivalist is handcrafted with a curated selection of plants chosen for their ethnobotanical roots and harmonious flavor profile. Visit the Botanery Bar(n) for a distillery tour, cocktails and seasonal farm-to-table cuisine. We can’t wait to see you! RevivalistSpirits.com.