Friday, August 30 2024 10:35

Brandywine Table: Food as Art

Written by Courtney H. Diener-Stokes

Food presentation is artfully crafted at Life's Patina Co. Mercantile & Cafe

Lemon poppyseed cake with candied violets at Life’s Patina

The first time Meg Veno, owner of Life’s Patina Co., went to Europe in 2006, she saw food in a different light: as art. “I was so blown away,” she said. “Between the charcuteries in Italy and the pastries in France, everything was fresh, local fare, and they were eating what was coming out of each season.”

During that trip, which marked her 20th wedding anniversary, Veno and her husband indulged in sweet treats and savory delicacies from cafes, bakeries, restaurants and bistros — a highlight of the visit. During their many meals, Veno was struck by the unstuffy approach to the food’s thoughtful presentation, giving meaning to the expression “eat with your eyes.” “It wasn’t fancy or fussy,” she said.

Extra touches to dishes — sprigs of freshly grown herbs, candied wildflowers and exposed preserves in layer cakes — caught her eye. Served in rustic bowls or on vintage French country plates — a nod to the roots of the culinary culture — the foods’ presentation elicited emotion and feeling in the dining experiences.

Meg Veno in her garden

Inspired by these experiences, this self-described foodie had a revelation upon her return home, although it was years before she could act on it. When Veno wanted to add a food component to her growing lifestyle business at Life’s Patina, “I thought, this is what I want to do here in America. To make everything beautiful with an eclectic and European feel that’s timeless and doesn’t follow the trends.”

And so she did. From the moment you walk up the stairs of the historic Jenny Lind House in Chester Springs that Veno spent five years restoring, you’re immersed in her aesthetic. You immediately notice Mercantile & Cafe is a homage to traditional designs of the past. “We’re in an art village, so our approach is in keeping with, ‘food is art, life is art.’”

The restored Jenny Lind house

The cafe’s reclaimed wood display cases are filled with pastries, scones, cookies and cakes, like a stunning mini lemon poppyseed cake with strawberry thyme jam in the center, topped with candied violets. The locally sourced, seasonal menu on the chalkboard describes soups, salads, quiches and tartines, such as their avocado tartine topped with feta, pickled onions and other textural surprises, all artfully presented. And all served on blue and white Delft dishware, along with vintage silverware reminiscent of meals during Veno’s Europe trip.

“We can celebrate every day and elevate things a little more by paying attention to the small details,” Veno added.

Read on for a taste, and look, at artful presentation for your meals.

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