Brandywine Table: Cheeseboard, But Make It Dinner
More ways to enjoy the wonders of some of Chester County's finest
In “The Wise Man’s Fear,” Patrick Rothfuss has his main character quip that it’s not the dark arts that scandalize people: it’s eating the cheese the wrong way. Yes, that’s a lighthearted lesson in manners, but it underscores a deeper truth: cheese is more than sustenance — it’s a cultural anchor.
If you don’t know your cheese history, it’s one of the foundational foods of human civilization. Cheese emerged as a “happy accident” some 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, closely following the domestication of herd animals like sheep and goats in the Fertile Crescent. As ancient nomadic cultures traveled, they discovered that milk stored in animal stomach pouches would separate into curds and whey, transforming a perishable liquid into a durable, transportable, digestible food source.
That ancient history laid the groundwork, but modern cheesemaking has refined the craft into an art form that mirrors the complexity of fine wine. For this month’s Brandywine Table, we checked in with Sue Miller, owner and expert cheesemaker at Birchrun Hills Farm, a family-run dairy and creamery in Chester Springs, known for its award-winning, milk-first philosophy. Sue and her husband Ken manage every detail of production, starting with their herd of Holstein cows raised on high-forage diets and farm-grown feed.
“You take a simple ingredient like milk and translate that into flavor and texture and stories,” said Sue Miller. She noted that cheese shares the same concept of terroir with wine, but with a more immediate pulse. While a vineyard reflects a season, milk reflects a single day. Weather, hydration, even herd stress register instantly in fat and protein levels, shaping flavor, texture and melt.
At Birchrun Hills, gravity-fed milk flows to the creamery to preserve its natural character before cheeses are aged in an underground, cave-like facility. This dedication to daily terroir has earned the Millers honors as Chester County Farmers of the Year and a permanent place on the region’s finest cheese boards.
To bring that craftsmanship into the home kitchen, Sue shared four signature recipes that showcase the versatility of the Birchrun lineup, from fresh, crisp dishes like celery and fennel salad with Birchrun Blue and the tart acidity of skillet Chardy with roasted grapes and walnuts to richer, comforting favorites. A bright, herb-flecked Birchrun Hills Farms Ola with lemon and za’atar and the decadent Fat Cat fondue with wild mushrooms highlight the farm’s distinct profiles. We’ve also included an alpine-inspired tartiflette for a hearty, entrée-sized celebration of melted gold. And for a sweet finish, the Birchrun cheesecake proves once again that world-class cheese elevates every course.
These recipes are designed to spark conversation and delight, turning every seasonal gathering into a showcase of Chester County’s finest flavors.