A Tapestry of Tastes

As autumn unfolds and nature weaves a tapestry of colors, it’s the perfect time to immerse yourself in the rich flavors of fall. Fortified wines are a perfect choice, as they elevate an entire dining experience, offering a rich cornucopia of flavors that complement a variety of seasonal foods.

Sherry, marsala, vin doux and port play pivotal roles in enhancing meals with their complex and versatile palates. And yet we have been led to think of them as mere “dessert wines.” Historically, these wines were broadly enjoyed with many courses, not banished to the back page of the wine list or a footnote on the dessert menu.

Fortified wines undergo a unique process in which a distilled spirit (typically brandy) is added, resulting in higher alcohol content and distinct, complex flavors that set them apart. These wines come in both dry and sweet varieties and different levels of aging. Only port wines come from red grapes, though due to aging and oxidation, the others can also appear a dark amber. Fortified wines, with their higher alcohol content and concentrated flavors and aromas, are generally served in smaller glasses with narrow rims.

Redolent notes of caramel, spices and dried fruits in these wines marry well with the sumptuous flavors and heartier meals of fall. Here are a few to explore in the coming months.

Sherry’s Seaside Salinity and Nutty Bouquets

The flavorful journey begins with a delicate and dry aperitif — fino or manzanilla sherry from Spain. Williams & Humbert Don Zoilo Manzanilla 5-Year Sherry ($28.99) is a very dry sherry with intense, complex aromas and a hint of seaside salinity on the finish. Drink this chilled like a white wine, in a wide glass, and serve it with salty snacks like olives and nuts, sushi, seafood and Spanish ham.

For a medium-dry alternative, Williams & Humbert Dry Sack Sherry Medium Dry ($17.69) provides a nutty bouquet that complements high-fat dishes like foie gras and Chinese BBQ pork ribs. An aged amontillado sherry, such as Williams & Humbert Don Zoilo Amontillado 15-Year Sherry ($28.99), offers a deep, complex nose of dried fruits, hazelnuts, caramel, pastry and spices. The longer aging allows even more richness and complexity that pairs with turkey and duck, truffle dishes, asparagus, anchovies and ripe cheeses like cheddar and aged Parmesan.

Marsala Magic, Savory Delights

Marsala wine, originating from Sicily, offers dry, semi-sweet and sweet variations. Nutty and rich, with strong notes of caramel, brown sugar, vanilla, tamarind, dates, apricot and sweet tobacco with an elegant dried-fruit finish, both dry and semi-sweet versions add depth to chicken or veal marsala. Try Florio Vecchioflorio Marsala Superiore Dry and Florio Vecchioflorio Marsala Superiore Sweet (both $13.99).

French Elegance

Terrassous Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel 18-Year-Old ($39.99) from Roussillon, France presents a symphony of fruits, raisins, honey, caramel and coffee accented by a nutty character, ideal for Asian dishes, roasted squash, pumpkin or pecan pie, and autumn desserts. (Vin doux naturel means “natural sweet wine.”)

For an authentic French experience, the Carmes de Reiussec Sauternes 2019 ($19.99) encapsulates the essence of the beneficial fungus “noble rot,” offering a signature botrytis, apricot and honey profile that complements foie gras and Roquefort, or cheesecake and fruit tarts equally well.

If you’d like an interesting tasting comparison, consider exploring an ice wine, a rare and often expensive wine made from frozen grapes, like Frost Bitten Ice Riesling ($14.99) from the U.S.

Port of Perfection

For the grand finale, consider the iconic port wine, originating from northern Portugal along the Douro River. Whether ruby red or aged tawny, port shines in gourmet cooking as either an ingredient or an accompaniment. From salads with poached pears to enhancing elegant demi-glace sauces, port adds a luxurious richness that elevates fall recipes.

For cooking, Taylor Port and Taylor Tawny Port (both $19.99) are go-to choices for professional chefs, while Cockburn’s Porto Branco Fine White Port ($15.99) and Delaforce Fine Ruby Porto ($14.99) offer accessible options for serving.

But for a special occasion, serve a lightly chilled Graham’s Tawny Porto 20-Year-Old ($70.99). With complex aromas of orange peel, cinnamon, prunes, raisins and figs, it’s perfect for any course of a fine meal. It goes particularly well with standing rib roast, beef Wellington or crème brûlée.

Elevate Every Bite

The joy of pairing fall foods with fortified wines is in the incredibly food-friendly wines that easily complement hard-to-pair ingredients like asparagus, Brussels sprouts, walnuts and other strong, earthy flavors like pumpkin spices, Gorgonzola cheese and wild mushrooms. These wines hold up well to cooking temperatures, and anything used as an ingredient — sherry to enhance caramelization for French onion soup, for example — can also be served with the dish.

Even the sweetest wines can be used in savory recipes with a splash of vinegar. So, have fun with them, let your culinary creativity soar, and embrace the historical tradition of enjoying these so-called dessert wines throughout the meal to enrich your autumn dining experiences. These wines add a touch of sophistication and elegance to fall gatherings, reminding us to slow down and savor each moment.

Cheers to a season of abundance and flavorful celebrations, and please always drink responsibly!

Liz Tarditi is an entrepreneur and classically trained chef with 35 years’ experience in the culinary world. She holds a degree from Villanova University and graduated with honors from the Culinary Arts program at the Art Institute of Seattle. Liz has worked for Fine Wine & Good Spirits for five years, becoming a Wine Specialist in 2020. She enjoys pairing wine and food for special events and celebrations. See Liz at the Phoenixville Fine Wine & Good Spirits location.