It was as close to al fresco as one could hope for in the dead of winter in Kennett Square, and it was a treat. A glass ceiling (no cracks) was all that separated us from the great outdoors in the rooftop atrium, an all-season dining room that’s one of Half Moon’s distinctive attractions.

  Seated on patio-style furniture, surrounded by a jungle of green and flowering plants, we enjoyed communing with the treetops outside and savored a particularly colorful sunset as it intensified and then slowly faded away over the rooftops. Knowing that the ceiling is designed to be rolled back like a garage door — a genius of an idea — we looked forward to warm weather visits when evening breezes enhance the outdoorsy setting.

  Half Moon’s first floor fits the “upscale pub” category, but this is no cookie-cutter restaurant. Architectural highlights from the 1920s when the Kennett Kandy Kitchen operated there, making lots of fudge and taffy, I presume, have been preserved. Stamped tin panels cover the high ceilings overlooking a white porcelain tile floor and sturdy mahogany booths with tall backs. It’s a lively gathering spot, especially around the king-size mahogany bar with 27 beers on tap plus a long beer list with an emphasis on Belgian brews.

  Why Belgian? For the same reason wild game choices abound on the menu. They’re personal favorites of co-owner Scott Hammond. His years skiing out West sparked an appreciation for wild game, both its flavor and its healthfulness. Brewery school courses years ago turned Hammond on to Belgian beer, which he touts as “the most flavorful, best-crafted, intense beers in the world.” And they go well with food, he adds. After serving them here for 11 years, he’s obviously won over many converts.

Where the Wild Things Are

  The restaurant’s wild side includes llama tenderloin, wild game chili, gator gumbo, kangaroo loin, ostrich burgers and “buffaloaf.” For the timid, a wild game sampler appetizer offers a tasting opportunity. Half Moon’s wild game burgers are getting national attention on the Travel Channel’s 2010 Hamburger Paradise special. Even “Lil Buckaroos” (read kids menu) get a wild choice: buffalo hot dogs.

  Intensely earthy and creamy, the Smoky Exotic Mushroom Bisque ($3.25/$5.50) warmed body and soul. I wanted to lick the bowl. The Spinning Granny salad ($8), an appealing heap of spinach, arugula, Granny Smith slices, walnuts, craisins and zesty gorgonzola, was lightly dressed with a colorful and tangy cranberry vinaigrette.

  Other “grazer” choices included house-made sweet potato gnocchi; sautéed exotic mushrooms with cranberries, walnuts and claret sauce; walnut encrusted local goat cheese; seared saku tuna with seaweed salad; Buffalo-style chicken tenders; melted gorgonzola-Jack fries; and hummus du jour.

  Salad options: Caesar, iceberg wedge with bacon and bleu cheese, and a Mediterranean toss of plum tomatoes, greens, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives and feta with green goddess dressing.

  My duck-loving companion’s eyes lit up when she spotted the Hudson Valley Lola Duck Breast a l’Orange ($28) on the printed specials menu. The heritage breed breast was slow roasted until the skin was crispy and the meat moist, with a zesty orange-sherry reduction brightening every bite. Leaner than most duck breasts, its slight gaminess was another plus. Whipped white potatoes and sautéed spinach held their own in supporting roles.

  Savory Yak Strip Steak ($28), perfectly medium rare, hit the mark with its leanness, tenderness, juiciness and subtle wildness. Crispy potato wedges were pure comfort food while the sautéed spinach added uptown flair.

  Our server guided me well in picking the right Belgian beer — Delirium Tremens ($9.95) from the Huyghe Brewery in Melle. It was easy to love its sophisticated kick (9% alcohol!), citrusy flavors and creamy head. It turns out to be an international award winner. I was charmed by its distinctive bottle, painted to resemble ceramic with pale blue foil and little pink elephants dotting its surface.

  The “local wine” feature was Flickerwood Chambourcin from a family operation in Kane, Pennsylvania; the red wine, Malbec from Argentina. Chilean wines, especially bold reds, rank high on Half Moon’s list.

  Other entrées from the special menu: a tempting blend of gulf shrimp and chorizo with broccoli rabe and sun-dried tomato ravioli; llama tenderloin with black currant reduction; Boston sea bass with citrus crab risotto; and Blue Foot chicken with haricots verts. On the regular menu: corn meal-crusted tofu with butternut squash hash; wild boar rack with roasted root vegetables; Maryland-style crab cakes; free-range chicken with parsnip cake; and filet of beef. Yup, regular beef.

Sweetness and Goodness

  It was good news to learn that Sweet Somethings in Wilmington is the source for desserts like carrot cake, dulce de leche cheesecake, chocolate silk mousse and raspberry/white chocolate mousse cake.

  Key Lime Pie ($7) fulfilled all its sweet/tart and creamy/citrusy promise, seriously mouth-watering with a thick graham-cracker crust that was 100% crunchy, so welcome when so many are soggy. Decorative swirls of raspberry sauce added colorful flavor. Chocolate Crème Brûlée ($7) was delectable, its rich chocolate goodness not too sweet and a texture firmer than classic crème brûlée, with a dollop of whipped cream for the perfect topping.

One More Thing

  I had my doubts about Crab Nachos ($12) promoted as “everyone’s favorite.” Wouldn’t the crab get lost in the pile of chips, strong cheese and hot sauces? Curiosity prompted a follow-up lunch visit, when my preconceptions were wiped away. The crab salad held its own, nestled among the mild-flavored, blue corn tortilla chips, a light sprinkling of feta and jack cheeses, black beans and scrumptious avocado salsa. The array of soups, sandwiches and plates offer a good mix of standard faves, healthy choices and, of course, wild things to please the adventurous.

  Bottom line: We recommend visiting Half Moon much more than once in a blue moon. -CL-

Owners: Scott Hammond & Kristin Hess

Hours: Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Saturday noon to 10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday - Light dining until 11 p.m.
Bar open until 2 a.m.
Private parties for up to 80